In praise of the Quince.

At this time of year, you still have time to keep your eyes peeled for all the quinces discarded by footpaths and around people's front doors. I find that people plant these shrubs, but then never use the fruit, I suppose not knowing what to do with it. I've shown you a quince or two here -- and before you familiarise yourself with it, remember not to trespass into people's gardens. You don't want to get a reputation as a quince rustler (this sounds rude, I know.) I can tell you, though, that on walking two small ons to school this morning down a residential lane, I scored ten fruits that were just sitting quietly on the edge of the pavement. Just waiting to be claimed.

So, you have found, grown or been handed some quinces. Even if they look a bit battered, do not despair, because they are tough fellows and their fruit may be just fine underneath the peel. You are looking for perky yellow specimens, though.

First, smell them, though. You are inhaling --along with new sandalwood, sweet peas, old fashioned roses, autumn mornings and the tops of my babies' heads-- one of the most exquisite scents on earth, It is fresh, but as old as the hills; of the Orient, but yet so English. To me, this is, above all, the lingering smell of childhood. That's because my mother had a large and flourishing shrub under the windows of our sunny sitting room and the smell would waft in and  gently greet you. There's nothing else like it. If you have surplus quinces or decide that you will not eat them, then do as I have done in our sitting room. It's a picture in there today -- with the rather early Christmas tree that I could not resist and the quinces giving out their musky scent from the radiator and around the edges of the fireplace,. If gentle warmth touches them, they will perfume your house.

Here is a a simple thing to do with quinces. Somethng that also seems to me both autumnal and festive. My mother used to make quince jelly and it had a beautiful amber colour. Here is what I prefer to make.

SPICED QUINCES

Take about 20 quinces, wash and peel them carefully, then cut them in half, into 4 and then into 8. Remove any pith or pip. Now put them in a saucepan and cover them with fresh cold water. Add a big fat pinch of Maldon sea salt, bring them to the boil and then simmer gently for about 15 minutes to soften them. Now remove the pan from the heat, pour the water through a sieve and pop it back into the same pan or a different one if that's easier.Add 450ml of white wine vinegar,300g of caster sugar, 4 cloves, two small cinnamon quills or pieces of cassia bark and a couple of teaspoons of coriander seed. Bring this all to the boil, then add your quinces and then simmer very gently until the fruit is nicely tender but not pulpy.

Some recipes for a similar confection tell you to boil the juices up again the next day, but I just pack the lot into sterilised jars and that's that. The quinces are wonderful with cold meat or cheese and, if I were you, I'd have them with my Boxing Day leftovers.

Thank you to Dave F and Lepiaf Geo for the photos. www.flickr.com