The sprout. There's more to it than you realised.

People can be very rude about sprouts, but I love them and, with a bit of frost on them, they'll taste even better. I like them with just a little bite in the centre, but this is not a vegetable that, when cooked whole, takes well to undercooking. I actually like sprouts when they have been almost boiled to death -- you know, like in a hospital canteen. I can vouch for the hospital canteen because I ate in one not very long ago and the sprouts were, indeed, done to death and possibly over-salted. But I liked them. I realise I will not be selling this to may people. so I'll move on.

The secret, if there is one, is that you are best advised to cook your sprouts in the minimum water possible, but keep an eye on them. I also abide by this rule if I am cooking cabbage (although, as with the hospital canteen sprouts, so with the cabbage: one of the joys of my confinement after a labour that appeared to take about three days was the appearance of a Sunday lunch with the overcooked cabbage). Serve your sprouts with a celebration meal of a roast chicken, bread sauce, roast potatoes, mashed swede and proper gravy. That's my choice for the last day of Christmas --the Feast of Epiphany on the 6th of January. Oh yes: my tree is still up. Just pull any withered leaves off the sprouts, having avoided the purchase of any sad and yellowing specimens, cut the toughest end from the stalk of the sprouts and put them in a modicum of lightly salted water. Bring to the boil and simmer until tender. My mother always made little crosses in the bottom of a sprout, but I can see no rhyme or reason to this. However, if tradition dictates....

That's the roast dinner route. Now try this. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK.

If you have been clever enough to make extra potatoes and sprouts a part of your dinner, you have a feast in store for tea that day or a meal the next day. This works with either boiled or roast potatoes. Just mash your leftover potatoes and sprouts with a fork, amalgamating them as you do so.Keep them roughly mashed though: you are not after a puree here. Now cook the lot in a well oiled frying pan until your mixture, well, bubbles and squeaks. Try to let it brown in places. Serve this with a fried egg and a big mug of tea. Builder's tea, that is. Good Sunday breakfast, this. Or a Boxing Day tea. I'd even cook the potatoes and sprouts especially for it.

AND FOR A CHANGE...

A rapid supper for me goes as follows. Spiced, quick-fried sprouts

Just prepare the sprouts as before and then slash them into strips -- however they come. Get a wok (or a pan you can get really hot and move about easily) ready with a light film of sunflower oil into which you will put two finely chopped cloves of garlic and perhaps a finely chopped small nut of ginger root. Toss these in the oil until they begin to soften and brown and then add the sprouts. Stir them around with as much of a flourish as you dare; when you see them just beginning to soften, add some substantial splashes of Kikoman sauce. This is the only brand I use, the important thing being that it has some depth of flavour and it is naturally brewed. Toss the lot around for a couple of minutes and then add a couple of pinches of Chinese five spice powder and, perhaps, a pinch of dried red chilli flakes. It's done. You could serve this with rice, noodles or as part of a Chinese meal. If you want to make it more substantial, may I suggest that you start off with thin strips of chicken or pork and then add the sprouts as the meat begins to brown? I promise you this much maligned vegetable will taste sweet and nutty but with just a hint of brassica bite to tell you that it won't take being disparaged lying down. Ha!

srqpix and celesteh at flickr for the sprouts: thank you.